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Post by phoenix1967 on Jan 20, 2008 14:34:27 GMT -5
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Post by Grizz on Jan 20, 2008 18:35:12 GMT -5
all of them are nice but, I really like the one in the first picture
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Post by Buckskin Billy on Jan 20, 2008 22:52:01 GMT -5
i like the second from the top.i think it would look good with birds eye maple for a handle
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Post by phoenix1967 on Jan 21, 2008 7:02:52 GMT -5
Thanks fella's. The first one (as well as the third one... same knife, different view) is a trailing point for a guy named Wagenaar over at PP. The little scandi Pukko (second from the top) is for a guy that goes by Fiddleback. Both Knives are made from a lawnmower blade (the same blade) one fella wanted a forge finish, and one wanted a fine finish. The trailing point has a rosewood handle, and the scandi has the traditional birch (not a traditional shape though)
Thanks for the comments
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Post by Cody ( The Patriot ) on Jan 21, 2008 10:13:09 GMT -5
After you soften them what do you cut them with?What is your method Im not real sure of the proper words but to harden them back and then to make them where they arent too brittle?
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Post by phoenix1967 on Jan 21, 2008 14:49:31 GMT -5
I heat the mower blade to red, lay it in the anvil, hot cut (with a chisel) a chunk about the size I need. Heat agan, and beat it into shape. Heat again and again till I get the shape I want and forge in the bevels. Heat to non- magnetic, and let cool in still air three times. (This gets rid of the stresses in the steel. bladesmiths call it normalizing) Soak in vinegar and salt overnight. (this will allows you to scrub off most of the oxidized scale that develops on the surface of the steel. The oxides will kill your files and sandpaper in short order.) File, file, file, sand, sand, sand, drill holes for handle pins. When I get it to about 400 grit and the edge to about 1/32 thick, I heat to non magnetic, quench in veggie oil. When the blade is just cool enough to handle without gloves, I put it in the kitchen oven, blade edge up, for about an hour. If the blade is paricularly thick, I may do this three times. Polish, polish, polish, epoxy and pin the handle, sand the handle to shape. The only electricity used is for the fan on the forge, and the oven. There ya have it folks, a mini tutorial on neo-tribal bladesmithing. Heres some pics of my pitiful setup. Note the 15 in truck rim used for the fire pot. fuel is lump charcoal, not brickettes. The ever present RR track anvil and one of my smaller hammers. That piece of leaf spring is being forged out into a kukri. two of the knives above, in blank form.
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Post by Buckskin Billy on Jan 21, 2008 20:09:44 GMT -5
hell yeh thats what i been wanting to see.thanks so much for the great pics.i've tried many times to make a blade out of old files and lawn mower blades with no luck.you have given me a better idea of what i wasn't doing right.you sure got a nice set up.could you explain more about the char-coal thats used?
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Post by Cody ( The Patriot ) on Jan 21, 2008 22:24:28 GMT -5
Explain heat to non-magnetic for me a little I think I know what you meen but aint sure .Do you put a magnet on it while its red hot?
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Post by phoenix1967 on Jan 22, 2008 6:31:09 GMT -5
Billy, the charcoal is natural lump charcoal, made from hardwood. You can buy it at most home supply/ lumber yards, or make it yourself. A quick note on lawnmower blades is not all of them are High carbon steel. Heat one corner to cherry red and quench in water. Try to file it. If the steel is high carbon, the file wont cut it.
Cody, to heat to non magnetic is to heat to the critical point where the steel changes state. Most steels, this will be around 1400 degrees, or a bright cherry red. Yes, when the steel gets to this point, a magnet will not stick to it. I start checking around the time it gets to color.
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Post by Cody ( The Patriot ) on Jan 23, 2008 12:23:25 GMT -5
Thanks
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Post by badhand on Jan 24, 2008 21:58:19 GMT -5
What do you use for a fan? and how is it set up? those are some nice blades.
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Post by phoenix1967 on Jan 24, 2008 23:33:30 GMT -5
the fan is a little 120 v cabinet fan, It pressurizes the lower chamber, that in turn provides an even flow of air up through the holes in the rim. How much pressure is determined by how much of the grate I cover up.
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